Columella: De Arboribus

[1] Quoniam de cultu agrorum abunde primo volumine praecepissevidemur, non intempestiva erit arborum virgultorumque cura, quae vel maximapars habetur rei rusticae placet igitur, sicuti Vergilio, nobis quoqueduo esse genera surculorum, quorum alterum sua sponte gignitur, alterumcura mortalium procedit: illud, quod non ope humana provenit, materiaemagis aptum, hoc, cui labor adhibetur, idoneum fructibus.

[1] Since about the cultivation of fields we seem to have given precepts abundantly in the first volume, the care of trees and shrubs, which is held as even the greatest part of agriculture, will not be untimely; therefore it pleases us, as it did Vergil, that there are likewise two kinds of shoots, of which the one is generated of its own accord, the other proceeds by the care of mortals: that which does not come forth by human aid is more apt for timber, this, to which labor is applied, is suitable for fruits.

[2] De hoc itaque praecipiendum est, atque id ipsum genustripertito dividitur; nam ex surculo vel arbor procedit, ut olea, ficus, pirus, vel frutex, ut violae, rosae, harundines, vel tertium quiddam, quodneque arborem neque fruticem proprie dixerimus, sicuti est vitis.

[2] Therefore a precept must be given about this, and this genus itself is divided tripartitely; for from a shoot either a tree proceeds, as the olive, fig, pear, or a shrub, as violets, roses, reeds, or a third something, which we would not properly call either a tree or a shrub, as is the vine.

[3] Arborum et fruticum docebimus cultum, si prius devitibus praeceperimus.

[3] We will teach the cultivation of trees and shrubs, if first we have given precepts about vines.

DE VITIARIO FACIENDO.

ON MAKING A VINE-NURSERY.

Qui vineam vel arbustum constituere volet, seminaria priusfacere debebit; sic enim sciet cuius generis vitem positurus sit. Nam quaepretio parata disponitur, certam generositatis fidem non habet, quoniamdubium est, an is qui vendidit legendis seminibus adhibuerit diligentiam;tum etiam quod ex longinquo petitur, parum familiariter nostro solo venit, propter quod difficilius convalescit alienum exterae regionis.

Whoever will wish to establish a vineyard or an arboretum ought first to make nurseries (seminaries); for thus he will know of what kind of vine he is going to set. For that which is procured for a price and set out has no sure assurance of generosity (pedigree), since it is doubtful whether the seller applied diligence in selecting the seeds; then also because what is sought from afar comes but little familiar to our soil, on account of which a foreign stock from an external region takes hold with greater difficulty.

[4] Optimum est itaque eodem agro, quo vitem disposituruses, vel certe vicino facere seminarium, idque multum refert loci natura. Nam si colles vineis vel arbustis occupaturus es, providendum est, ut siccissimoloco fiat seminarium et iam quasi ab incunabulis vitis exiguo adsuescathumore; aliter cum transtuleris de humido in aridum locum, viduata pristinoalimento deficiet.

[4] Therefore it is best to make the nursery in the same field in which you are going to lay out the vine, or at least nearby; and this matters greatly on account of the nature of the place. For if you are going to occupy hills with vineyards or arboreta, you must provide that the nursery be made in a very dry spot, and that the vine, as if from the cradle, be accustomed to scant moisture; otherwise, when you have transferred it from a humid to an arid place, bereft of its former nourishment it will fail.

[5] At si campestres et uliginosos agros possidebis, proderit quoque seminarium simili loco facere et vitem largo consuescerehumore. Nam quae ex sicco in aquosum agrum transfertur, utcumque putrescit. Ipsum autem agrum, quem seminario destinaveris planum et sucosum, sat eritbipalio vertere, quod vocant rustici sestertium.

[5] But if you will possess level and uliginous fields, it will also be advantageous to make the nursery in a similar place and to accustom the vine to abundant moisture. For that which is transferred from a dry into a watery field, in any case rots somewhat. But the very field which you will have destined for the nursery—level and succulent— it will suffice to turn with the two-spade, which the rustics call the sestertium.

Ea repastinatio altitudinishabet plus sesquipedem, minus tamen quam duos pedes. Iugerum agri vertituroperis quinquaginta.

That repastination has in depth more than a foot and a half, yet less than two feet. A iugerum of land is turned with 50 workdays.

[6] Collem autem et clivosum modum iugeri, sed ne minusduobus pedibus alte, repastinaveris operis sexaginta: vel si eodem loco, quo vineam ordinaturus es, facere voles seminarium, tribus pedibus alterepastinabis iugerum operis octoginta; ita tamen si neque lapis neque tophusaut alia materia difficilior intervenit, quae res quot operas absumat parumcertum est. Nos autem de terreno loquimur.

[6] But a hill and sloping ground, to the extent of an iugerum, you will repastinate, but not less than two feet deep, with sixty work‑days: or if in the same place where you are going to set the vineyard in order you will wish to make the nursery, you will repastinate three feet deep an iugerum with eighty work‑days; thus, however, if neither stone nor tufa nor some other more difficult material intervenes, a thing for which how many labors it consumes is rather uncertain. We, however, are speaking of earthen soil.

QUALIA SEMINA ET QUANDO LEGAS.

WHAT KINDS OF SEEDS AND WHEN TO PICK.

[1] Peracta repastinatione, mense Februario vel prima parteMartii semina legito. Sunt autem optima, quae de vitibus notatis leguntur. Nam cui cordi est bona seminaria facere, circa vindemiam vites, quae etmagnum et incorruptum fructum ad maturitatem perduxerunt, rubrica cum aceto, ne pluviis abluatur, permixta denotat, nec hoc uno tantummodo anno facit, sed continuis tribus vel pluribus vindemiis easdem vites inspicit, an perseverentesse fecundae; tum enim manifestum est generositatis vitium, non anni ubertatefructum provenire.

[1] With the repastination completed, in the month of February or in the first part of March select the seed. Now the best are those which are gathered from marked vines. For whoever has at heart to make good nurseries, around the vintage marks with rubric (red ochre) mixed with vinegar—lest it be washed away by rains—the vines which have brought both great and uncorrupted fruit to ripeness; nor does he do this in this one year only, but through three continuous vintages or more he inspects the same vines, whether they persevere in being fecund; then indeed it is manifest that the fruit comes by the nobility of the stock, not by the year’s uberty.

[2] Si conpluribus vindemiis eundem tenorem servarint, ex eiusmodi vitibus lecta semina multum bonumque vinum praebebunt. Namqualiscumque generis uvae, quae integrae et incorruptae ad maturitatemperveniunt, longe melioris saporis vinum faciunt quam quae praecipienturaestu aut alia de causa.

[2] If through several vintages they have kept the same tenor, the seed‑stock gathered from vines of this sort will furnish much and good wine. For grapes of whatever kind, which come whole and uncorrupted to maturity, make wine of far better savor than those that are forced early by heat or by some other cause.

III

QUEM AD MODUM SEMINA ELIGAS.

HOW YOU SHOULD SELECT SEEDS.

[1] Semina autem eligito grandi acino, tenui folliculo, paucisminutisque vinaceis, dulci sapore. Optima habentur a lumbis, secunda abhumeris, tertia a summo vertice vitis lecta, quae celerrime conprehenduntet sunt feraciora, sed aeque celeriter senescunt. Pampinaria sarmenta deponinon placet, quia sterilia sunt. Locis pinguibus et planis et humidis praecoquesvites serito, raris acinis, brevibus nodis, inbecillas (nam tali generivitium eiusmodi ager aptus est);

[1] But choose seed-stock with a large berry, a thin little follicle, few and minute pips, a sweet savor. The best are held to be from the loins, the second from the shoulders, the third gathered from the very topmost vertex of the vine, which very swiftly take hold and are more fertile, but likewise grow old just as swiftly. It is not approved to lay down leaf-bearing shoots, because they are sterile. In fat and level and humid places plant precocious vines, with sparse berries, short nodes, feeble ones (for a field of this sort is apt for a kind of vines of this sort);

[2] locis aridis et macris et siccis vitem sero maturantemet validam crebrisque acinis. Quod si pingui agro validas vites deposueris, pampinis magis eluxuriabuntur, et qualemcumque fructum tulerint, ad maturitatemnon perducent; rursus inbecillae exili agro celeriter deficient exiguumquefructum dabunt. Unumquodque genus vitium separatim serito; ita suo quodquetempore putabis et vindemiaveris.

[2] In arid, lean, and dry places plant a vine that ripens late and is sturdy, with close-set berries. But if in rich soil you set down vigorous vines, they will over-luxuriate in the vine-leaves, and whatever fruit they bear, they will not bring to maturation; conversely, weak vines in meager soil will quickly fail and will give exiguous fruit. Plant each kind of vine separately; thus you will prune and bring in the vintage for each at its own proper time.

[3] Semina cum novello sarmento deposita cito conprehenduntet valenter crescunt, sed celeriter senescunt; at quae vetere sarmentopanguntur, tardius convalescunt, sed tardius deficiunt. Semina quam recentissimaterrae mandare convenit. Si tamen mora intervenerit, quo minus statim serantur, quam diligentissime obrui tota oportet eo loco, unde neque pluvias nequeventos sentire possint.

[3] Seeds, when laid down with a young shoot, quickly take hold and grow valiantly, but they age quickly; whereas those that are planted with an old shoot recover more slowly, but fail more slowly. It is fitting to commit seeds, as fresh as possible, to the earth. If, however, a delay has intervened, so that they are not sown at once, they ought to be covered over as carefully as possible, wholly, in a place where they can feel neither rains nor winds.

Plantaria facito ab exoriente ad decimam lunamet a vicensima ad tricesimam.

Make the nursery plantings from the waxing moon to the tenth day, and from the twentieth to the thirtieth.

[4] Haec vel melior est vitibus satio. Sed cum seras, frigidos ventos vitato.

[4] This is even the better planting for vines. But when you plant, avoid cold winds.

DE MALLEOLIS.

ON VINE-CUTTINGS.

Malleolum sic deponito. Virgam malleolarem non ampliusquam sex gemmarum esse convenit, ita tamen sunt, si brevia internodia habent. Eius imam partem quam in terram demissurus es, acutissima falce iuxta nodum, sic ne gemmam laedas, rotunda plaga amputato et statim fimo bubulo linito:tum in terram bene pastinatam et stercoratam rectum sarmentum defigito, ita ut ne minus quattuor gemmae abscondantur.

Set down the malleolus thus. The malleolar rod ought to be of no more than six buds, yet so they are if they have short internodes. Its lowest part, which you are about to lower into the earth, cut off with a rounded stroke by a very sharp sickle next to the node, so that you do not injure the bud, and immediately smear it with cow-dung:then set the shoot straight in soil well trenched and manured, so that not fewer than four buds are concealed.

[5] Pedale quoquoversus spatium sat erit inter seminarelinqui; cum conprehenderint, identidem pampinentur, ne plura sarmenta, quam debent, nutriant. Item quam saepissime fodiantur, ferro ne tangantur. Vicensimo et quarto mense resecentur, post tricesimum et sextum mensemtransferantur.

[5] A foot of space on every side will be enough to be left between the plantings; when they have taken hold, let them be repeatedly pampinated, so that they do not nourish more shoots (sarments) than they ought. Likewise let them be dug as very often as possible; let them not be touched by iron. In the twenty-fourth month let them be cut back; after the thirty-sixth month let them be transplanted.

DE VINEIS CONSTITUENDIS.

ON ESTABLISHING VINEYARDS.

In agro requieto vineam ponito. Nam ubi vinea fuit, quodcitius decimo anno severis, aegrius conprehendet nec umquam roborabitur.

Set a vineyard in a field at rest (fallow). For where a vineyard has been, if you plant sooner than the 10th year, it will take hold more with difficulty and will never become robust.

[6] Agrum antequam vineis obseras, explorato qualis saporis sit; talemenim etiam gustum vini praebebit. Sapor autem, sicuti primo docuimus volumine, conprehendetur, si terram aqua diluas et, cum consederit, tum demum aquamdegustes. Aptissima vitibus terra est harenosa, sub qua constitit dulcishumor, probus consimilis ager, cui subest tophus, aeque utilis congestaet mota terra.

[6] Before you sow the field with vines, explore what sort of savor it has; for such a gust it will likewise furnish to the wine. The savor, moreover, as we taught in the first volume, will be ascertained if you wash the soil with water and, when it has settled, then at length you degust the water. Most apt for vines is sandy earth, beneath which a sweet moisture has come to rest; commendable likewise is a similar ground underlain by tufa; equally useful is earth that has been heaped up and moved.

Sabulum quoque, cui subest dulcis argilla, vitibus convenit. Omnis autem, qui per aestatem finditur ager, vitibus arboribusque inutilis. Terra inferior alit vitem et arborem, superior custodit.

Gravel too, beneath which lies sweet clay, is suitable for vines. Every field, however, which splits in the summer, is useless for vines and trees. The lower soil nourishes the vine and the tree, the upper guards them.

[7] Saxa summa parte terrae vites et arbores laedunt, ima parte refrigerant, et mediocri raritudine optima est vitibus terra;sed ea, quae transmittit imbres aut rursus in summo diu retinet, vitandaest. Utilissima autem est superior modice rara, circa radices densa. Montibusclivisque difficulter vineae convalescunt, sed firmum probumque saporemvini praebent.

[7] Rocks in the top part of the soil harm vines and trees; in the bottom part they cool them, and soil with moderate looseness is best for vines; but that which lets the rains pass through, or conversely long retains them on the surface, is to be avoided. Most useful, moreover, is the upper soil moderately loose, dense around the roots. On mountains and slopes vineyards recover with difficulty, but they furnish a firm and sound savor of wine.

Humidis et planis locis robustissimae, sed infirmi saporisvinum nec perenne faciunt. Et quoniam de seminibus atque habitu soli praecepimus, nunc de genere vinearum disputabimus.

In humid and level places they are most robust, but they make wine of infirm savor and not perennial. And since we have prescribed concerning the seeds and the habit of the soil, now we shall discuss the kind of vines.

GENERA VINEARUM.

KINDS OF VINEYARDS.

[1] Vites maxime gaudent arboribus, quia naturaliter in sublimeprocedunt, tunc et materias ampliores creant et fructum aequaliter percoquunt. Hoc genus vitium arbustivum vocamus, de quo pluribus suo loco dicemus. Vinearum autem fere genera in usu tria sunt, iugata, humi proiecta et deindetertia, est a Poenis usurpata, more arborum in se consistens.

[1] Vines greatly delight in trees, because they naturally proceed on high; then too they produce ampler wood and ripen the fruit evenly. We call this kind of vines arbustive, about which we will say more in its proper place. But as for vineyards, the kinds commonly in use are three: the yoked (trained to supports), those cast upon the ground, and then a third, which is employed by the Punic people, standing by itself in the manner of trees.

Id genus conparatum iugatae quadam parte deficitur, quadam superat.

That kind, when compared with the trellised, is in one respect deficient, in another it surpasses.

[2] Iugata plus aeris recipit et altius fructum fertet aequalius concoquit, sed difficilior est eius cultus; at haec ita constitutaest, ut etiam arari possit, eoque ubertatem maiorem consequitur, quod saepiuset minore inpensa excolitur. At quae protinus in terram porrecta est, multum, sed non bonae notae vinum facit. Vinea optime repastinato agro ponitur, nonnunquam tamen vel melius quibusdam locis sulcis committitur; interdumetiam scrobibus deponitur. Sed, ut dixi, repastinatur iugerum in altitudinempedum trium operis octoginta;

[2] The yoked (trellised) kind receives more air and bears its fruit higher and more evenly matures it, but its cultivation is more difficult; but this is so constituted that it can even be ploughed, and for that reason it attains greater fertility, because it is tilled more often and with less expense. But that which is stretched straight upon the ground makes much wine, but not of good stamp. A vineyard is best set after the field has been repastinated; sometimes, however, in certain places it is even better committed to furrows; sometimes also it is planted down in pits. But, as I said, a iugerum is repastinated to a depth of three feet, a labor of eighty days;

[3] sulcum autem terrenum altum duorum, longum septuagintauna opera effodit; scrobes ternarios, id est quoquoversus pedum trium, una opera facit XVIII. Vel si cui cordi est laxius vites ponere, scrobesquaternarios, id est quoquoversus pedum quaternum, una opera duodecim facit, vel bipedaneos quoquoversus una opera viginti effodit. Curandum autem est, ut locis aridis et clivosis altius vitis deponatur quam si humidis et planis.

[3] A trench in the soil, two feet deep and seventy feet long, is dug in a single day’s work; pits of three feet (that is, three feet on every side), in a single day’s work one makes 18. Or, if it is anyone’s pleasure to set the vines more loosely, pits of four feet (that is, four feet on every side), in a single day’s work one makes twelve, or two-footers on every side, in a single day’s work one digs twenty. Care must be taken, moreover, that in dry and sloping places the vine be set down deeper than if in moist and level.

Item si scrobibus aut sulcis vineam posituri erimus, optimum erit anteannum scrobes vel sulcos facere.

Likewise, if we are going to plant a vineyard in pits or furrows, it will be best to make the pits or furrows a year beforehand.

[4] Vinea, quae angustissime conseritur, quoquoversusquinque pedum spatio interposito ponitur, inter septem vel octo pedes, quae rarissime, ut etiam facile arari possit, inter denos pedesconstituitur. Haec positio vinearum modum sine dubio agri maiorem occupat, sed valentissima et fructuosissima est. Cum semina depones, imum scrobemvel sulcum bidentibus fodito mollemque reddito.

[4] A vineyard which is planted most narrowly is set with a space of five feet in every direction; that which is planted most rarely, between seven or eight feet, so that it may also be easily plowed, is established at ten feet. This arrangement of vineyards without doubt occupies a greater measure of the field, but it is very strong and most fruitful. When you deposit the seedings, dig the bottom of the pit or the furrow with bidents (two‑pronged hoes) and render it soft.

Vitem, quam ponis, facut ad Orientem spectet adminiculo religata. In imo scrobe lapides circapondo quina ita ponito, ne vitem premant, sed iuxta radices sint.

The vine which you are planting, see that it face toward the Orient, bound to a support. In the bottom of the pit place stones of about five pounds apiece in such a way that they do not press the vine, but be next to the roots.

[5] Praeterea post haec vinaceae heminam uvae albae innigra, uvae nigrae in alba ponito, atque ita scrobem vel sulcum cum instercorataterra ad medium conpleto. Triennio deinde proximo paulatim scrobem velsulcum usque in summum conpleto; sic vites consuescent radices deorsumagere. Spatium autem radicibus, qua repant, lapides praebent et hieme aquamrepellunt, aestate humorem praebent; vinaceae vitis radices agere cogunt.

[5] Moreover, after these things, put a hemina of pomace: of white grapes upon a black vine, of black grapes upon a white; and thus with earth intermixed with manure fill the pit or furrow up to the middle. Then in the next three years little by little fill the pit or furrow up to the very top; thus the vines will grow accustomed to drive their roots downward. The stones provide space for the roots, where they creep, and in winter they repel water, in summer they provide moisture; the pomace compels the vine’s roots to drive forward.

Quoniam praecepimus, quem ad modum vites ponendae sint, nunc culturam earumdocebimus.

Since we have prescribed in what manner vines are to be planted, now we will teach their cultivation.

DE CULTURA VINEARUM.

ON THE CULTIVATION OF VINEYARDS.

[1] Vineam novellam omnis gemmas agere sinito. Simul atquepampinus instar quattuor digitorum erit, tum demum pampinato et duas materiasrelinquito: alteram quam vitis constituendae causa submittas, alteram subsidiohabeas, si forte illa ordinaria interierit; hanc rustici custodem vocant. Proximo deinde anno, cum putabis vitem, meliorem unam virgam relinquito, alteras tollito.

[1] Allow a new-planted vineyard to put forth all its buds. As soon as the young shoot is of the size of four fingers, then at last leaf-prune and leave two canes: one which you train for the purpose of establishing the vine, the other keep as a reserve, in case that standard one should perish; this the rustics call the “guardian.” Then in the next year, when you prune the vine, leave the one better rod, remove the others.

Tertio anno vitem, in quam formam voles, dum tenera est, conponito.

In the third year, shape the vine, into whatever form you wish, while it is tender.

[2] Si iugatam eris facturus, unam materiem submittito, ita ut duas gemmas, quae sunt proximae a terra, falce acuta radas, quone iam possint germinare et deinde tres sequentis relinquas, reliquam partemvirgae amputes. Sin autem vitem in se consistere voles, sicut arbori brachiasubmitti patieris et dabis operam, ut in orbem quam rotundissime formetur. Nam praeterquam quod speciem habet sic conposita, tum etiam minus laborat, cum undique velut aequilibrio stabilita in se requiescit.

[2] If you are going to make it trellised, submit one shoot, in such a way that you scrape with a sharp sickle the two buds that are nearest to the ground, so that they may not now be able to germinate; and then leave the next three, and amputate the remaining part of the rod. But if you wish the vine to stand by itself, you will allow arms to be submitted to it as to a tree, and you will give effort that it be formed into a circle as round as possible. For besides the fact that it has a fine appearance when composed thus, then also it labors less, since, stabilized on all sides as if by equilibrium, it rests in itself.

Sat erit autem, cum primo brachia submittuntur, singulas gemmas singulis sarmentis relinqui, ne protinus onere gravetur.

It will be sufficient, however, when the arms are first trained, that one bud be left to each shoot, lest it be immediately weighed down by a burden.

[3] Post hanc putationem lectis sarmentis bidentibusalte aequaliter vineam fodito vel, si ita late disposita erit, arato. AbIdibus Octobribus oblaqueare incipito, ante brumam oblaqueatam habeto. Per brumam vitem ne colito, nisi si voles eas radices, quae in oblaqueationeapparebunt, persequi.

[3] After this pruning, with the cuttings gathered, dig the vineyard deep and evenly with two‑pronged hoes (bidents), or, if it is laid out so widely, plough it. From the Ides of October begin to earth up, and have it earthed up before midwinter. Do not cultivate the vine during the bruma, unless you wish to pursue those roots which will appear in the earthing‑up.

Tum demum optime amputabis, sed ita ne codicem laedas, sed potius instar digiti unius a matre relinquas et ita radicem reseces. Nam quae protinus abraditur, praeterquam quod vulnus viti praebet eoquenocet, tum etiam de ipsa cicatrice plures radices prorepunt.

Then at last you will amputate to best effect, but so that you do not injure the stock, rather leave from the mother about a single finger’s breadth, and thus cut back the root. For that which is straightway abraded, besides the fact that it offers a wound to the vine and thereby harms it, then also from the cicatrice itself several roots creep forth.

[4] Itaque optimum est exiguam partem relinqui atqueita summas partes, quas aestivas rustici appellant, resecare; quae sicresectae inarescunt nec ultra vitibus obsunt. Possunt etiam suboles perbrumam caedi, eo magis quod frigoribus exstirpatae minus recreantur. Peractaoblaqueatione ante brumam tertio quoque anno macerati stercoris, ne minussextarios binos ad radices vitium posuisse conveniet, praeterquam columbinum;quod si quo amplius quam heminam posueris, viti nocebit.

[4] Therefore it is best that a small part be left, and thus to cut back the uppermost parts, which the rustics call the summer growth; which, thus cut back, dry up and no longer harm the vines. The shoots too can be cut during the winter, all the more because, extirpated by frosts, they regenerate less. With the oblaqueation finished before winter, every third year it will be proper to have put at the roots of the vines no less than two sextarii of macerated manure, except pigeon-dung; which, if anywhere you shall have put more than a hemina, will harm the vine.

Post brumam deindeoblaqueationem circumfodito.

After midwinter, then dig around the oblaqueation.

[5] Ante aequinoctium vernum, quod est octavo Kal. Apriles, oblaqueationem adaequato. Post Idus Apriles terram ad vitem aggerato.

[5] Before the vernal equinox, which is on the eighth day before the Kalends of April, level the oblaqueation. After the Ides of April, heap up the earth to the vine.

Aestatedeinde quam potes saepissime occato. Iugerum vineae quinque operis oblaqueatur, quinque foditur, tribus occatur. Iugerum valentis et iam constitutae vineae, quattuor operis putatur, sex adligatur.

In summertime then, hoe as very often as you can. A iugerum of vineyard is oblaqueated with 5 works, is dug 5, is hoed 3. A iugerum of a strong and now established vineyard is pruned with 4 works, is tied up 6.

[6] Arbusto nihil eiusmodi potest ante finiri, quia inaequalitasarborum non patitur operis iusta conprehendi. Quibusdam placet vitem proximoanno translatam non putare, sequenti deinde anno purgare et unam virgam, quam submittamus, ad tertiam gemmam resecare, tertio deinde si vitis recteconvaluerit, una plus gemma submittere, quarto duas gemmas proximae putationiadicere atque ita quinto demum anno vitem iugare. Hunc eundem ordinem culturaenos quoque experti conprobavimus.

[6] In the arbustum nothing of this sort can be settled beforehand, because the inequality of the trees does not allow the just measures of the work to be comprehended. It pleases some that a vine transplanted should not be pruned in the next year; then in the year thereafter to purge it, and the one rod which we let down to cut back to the third bud; then in the third, if the vine has rightly recovered, to allow one bud more; in the fourth, to add two buds to the next pruning; and thus only in the fifth year to yoke the vine. This same order of cultivation we too, having made trial, have approved.

DE RESECANDA VETERE VINEA ET PROPAGANDA.

ON CUTTING BACK AN OLD VINEYARD AND ON PROPAGATION.

[1] Veterem vineam, si in summo radices habebit, resecarenolito; alioquin etiam novellam vineam, quae ex resectione enata fuerit, inutilem habebis, prima parte terrae natantibus radicibus, neque fructumuberem percipies et nihilominus celeriter consenescet. Eiusmodi itaquevinea, si non peraridos habet truncos et flecti potest, factis sulcis optimesternitur atque ita renovellatur.

[1] Do not have an old vineyard cut back, if it has roots at the surface; otherwise you will have even the young vineyard which will have been born from the resection as useless, with the roots floating in the top part of the soil; you will neither receive copious fruit, and nonetheless it will grow old quickly. Therefore a vineyard of this kind, if it does not have very-dry trunks and can be bent, is best laid down, furrows having been made, and so is renewed (propagated by layering).

[2] Sin autem usque eo exaruit, ut curuari non possit, primo anno summatim, ita ne radices eruas aut laedas, oblaqueato eam etstercus ad radices addito atque ita putato, ut paucas et certas materiasrelinquas, et fodias diligenter et saepius pampines, ne omnino supervacuasarmenta nutriat.

[2] But if it has dried out to such a point that it cannot be bent, in the first year, only summarily—so that you do not uproot or wound the roots—bank it up and add manure at the roots, and prune it thus, so as to leave few and definite canes; and dig carefully, and more often strip off the pampins (leafy shoots), lest it nourish altogether superfluous wands.

[3] Sic exculta longas et firmas materias creabit, quassequenti anno scrobibus inter ordines factis propaginabis ac deinde triennio, cum convalescat, saepius fodies matremque ipsam onerabis; nihil in posterumprospicies ei, quam sublaturus es. Posterum annum matrem radicitustolles atque ita novellam vineam ordinabis.

[3] Thus cultivated it will create long and firm canes, which in the following year, with pits made between the rows, you will propagate; and then in the third year, when it grows strong, you will dig more often and load the mother herself; you will look ahead nothing for the future for her whom you are about to remove. In the following year you will take up the mother by the roots, and thus you will order the new vineyard.

[4] Sin autem vetus vinea dumtaxat generis boni radicesalte positas habebit, ita ut oblaqueatae non conspiciantur, eam vineamcirca Kal. Martias, antequam reseces, oblaqueato et protinus, cum alteoblaqueaveris, sic resecato. Quattuor digitos ab radicibus trunci relinquitoet, si fieri poterit, iuxta aliquem nodum serrula desecato et plagam acutissimoferro delevato. Deinde minutam terram mediocriter stercoratam ita superponito, ut adobruto trunco ne minus tres digiti terrae super plaga sint;

[4] But if, however, an old vineyard, at least of good stock, will have roots set deep, such that even when trenched around they are not seen, trench that vineyard around the Kalends of March, before you prune, and immediately, when you have trenched it deep, then prune thus. Leave the trunk four fingers from the roots, and, if it can be done, cut it off with a little saw near some node, and smooth the wound away with a very sharp iron. Then lay over it fine earth moderately manured in such a way that, with the trunk covered, there be not less than three fingers of earth above the wound;

[5] hoc idcirco, ne sole inarescat et ut melius materiascitet percepto humore, quem terra praebet. At quae mali generis et infructuosavinea est summasque partes eiuncidas et exesas habet, si radices eius satisalte positae sunt, optime inseretur ita, ut oblaqueata et nudata pars imasecundum terram sic amputetur, ne cum aggerata fuerit, supra terram exstet.

[5] this for the reason, lest it dry out in the sun and so that the stock/wood may sprout the better upon taking in the moisture which the earth provides. But a vineyard which is of bad kind and unfruitful and has its topmost parts lopped and eaten away—if its roots are set sufficiently deep—will be best grafted in such a way that, after it has been trenched around and the lowest part laid bare, it be cut off level with the ground, so that, when it has been banked up, it does not stand out above the soil.

VII

DE PROPAGATIONE.

ON PROPAGATION.

[1] Propagationum genera tria sunt in usu maxime: unum, quovirga edita a matre sulco committitur, alterum, quo ipsa mater prosternituratque in pluris palos per suas virgas dividitur, tertium, quo vitis finditurin duas vel tres partes, si diversis ordinibus deducenda est. Hoc genustardissime convalescit, quia vitis divisa medullam amittit. Et quoniamgenera proposuimus, unumquodque qualiter faciendum sit, demonstrabimus.

[1] The genera of propagations are three, chiefly in use: one, wherein a shoot produced from the mother is committed to a furrow; a second, wherein the mother herself is laid prostrate and is divided upon several stakes by means of her own rods; a third, wherein the vine is split into two or three parts, if it must be led down into different rows. This genus convalesces most slowly, because a divided vine loses its medulla (pith). And since we have proposed the genera, we will demonstrate how each one is to be done.

[2] Virgam cum a matre in terram deprimere voles, scrobemquoquoversus quattuor pedum facito ita, ut propala non laedatur alteriusradicibus. Deinde quattuor gemmas, quae in imum scrobem perveniunt, relinquito, ut ex his radices citentur. Reliquam partem, quae continens matri est, adradito, ne supervacua sarmenta procreet.

[2] When you wish to press a rod from the mother down into the earth, make a pit four feet every way, so that the layer is not injured by the roots of another. Then leave four buds (gems) which reach to the bottom of the pit, so that from these the roots may be summoned. Shave down the remaining part which is contiguous with the mother, lest it produce superfluous sarments.

[3] Diversae autem, quae supra terram exstare debent, ne passus fueris plus quam duas aut ut maxime tres gemmas habere. Reliquas, quae in terram absconduntur, exceptis quattuor imis fac adradas, ne insummo radices vitis citet. Hoc modo propagata celeriter convalescit ettertio anno a matre separabitur.

[3] As for the shoots which ought to stand above the ground, do not allow them to have more than two, or at most three, buds. The remaining ones, which are hidden in the earth, except for the lowest four, have them scraped off, lest the vine put forth roots at the top. In this way the propagated plant quickly grows strong, and in the third year it will be separated from the mother.

sin autem ipsam vitem sternere voles, iuxta radicem ita, ne ipsam laedas, curiose fodito et vitem ita subplantato, ne radicem abrumpas. Cum eam statueris et videris, quousque possit pertingere, sulcum facies unum, in quem vitem integram demittas; deinde ex eo sulcoquasi ramos fossarum facies, per quos, uti quaeque virga postulavit, propaletur, atque ita terra adoperies.

but if you will wish to lay down the vine itself, near the root, in such a way that you do not injure it, carefully dig, and underplant the vine thus, so that you do not break the root. When you have set it and have seen how far it can reach, you will make a single furrow, into which you may let down the entire vine; then from that furrow you will make, as it were, branches of trenches, through which, as each shoot has required, it may be spread forth, and thus you will cover with earth.

[4] Sin autem vitis exiguam materiem habebit et in diversosordines deducenda erit neque aliter potuerit palos, ad quos perducitur, pertingere, quam ut diffluvietur, curabis, ut quam acutissima falce abea parte, qua bifurca est, findas eam et item ferro acuto plagam emendes, sicubi inaequaliter findi videbitur; sic deducta poterit in plures ordinesdividi.

[4] But if the vine will have scant material and must be led out into different rows, and it will not otherwise be able to reach the stakes to which it is conducted except by being splayed apart, you will take care to split it with the sharpest sickle on that side where it is bifurcate, and likewise with a sharp iron to amend the wound, wherever it shall seem to have been split unevenly; thus led out it will be able to be divided into more rows.

[5] Non inutilis est etiam illa propagatio, quam nosrepperimus, si quando in ordinem vitis deest neque est tam procera virga, quae cum in imum scrobem demissa fuerit, retorqueri et erigi supra terrampossit. Brevitatem ne reformidaveris, sed qualemcumque virgam, cuius cacumenin imum scrobem pervenit, deprimito et obruito. Deinde gemmas, quae secundumipsam matrem sunt, submittito, ut materias a superiore parte citent.

[5] Not unuseful, too, is that propagation which we have found, if ever a vine is lacking in the row and there is not so tall a shoot as, when sent down into the bottom of the pit, can be bent back and raised above the ground. Do not dread shortness, but whatever shoot whose summit reaches to the bottom of the pit, press it down and cover it. Then set beneath the buds which are along the mother itself, so that they may summon canes from the upper part.

Tumdemum post triennium a matre amputato et ad suum palum eam partem, quama matre praecideris, reducito et caput vitis facito. Propaginis scrobemminime triennio paulatim conpleto. Summas radices praecidito, crebre fodito.

Then at last, after three years, with it amputated from the mother, lead back to its own stake that part which you have cut off from the mother, and make it the head of the vine. Do not by any means complete the propagation pit before three years; complete it gradually. Cut back the uppermost roots; hoe frequently.

VIII

DE INSITIONE.

ON GRAFTING.

[1] Cum vitem inserere voles, optimi generis sarmenta fructuaria, tum cum gemmas agere incipient, vento austro a matre praecidito. Sarmentum, quod inseris, de summa vite sit rotundum, bonis crebrisque nodis. Tresdeinde nodos integerrimos relinquito; infra tertiam gemmam ex utraque parteduorum digitorum spatium in modum cunei tenuissimo scalpello acuito, itane medullam laedas.

[1] When you wish to graft the vine, cut off fruit-bearing canes of the best kind, then, when the buds begin to push, from the mother with the south wind blowing. The cane which you graft should be from the top of the vine, well-rounded, with good and frequent nodes. Then leave three most entire nodes; below the third bud, on each side, a space of two fingers’ breadth, shape it in the manner of a wedge with a very fine scalpel, so that you do not injure the medulla (pith).

[2] Vitem deinde, quam insiturus es, resecato et plagamlevato atque ita findito et paratos surculos in fissuram demittito eatenus, qua adrasi sunt, ita ut cortex surculi corticem vitis aequaliter contingat. Quicquid inserveris, ulmi diligenter libro vel vimine ligato luto subactopaleato oblinito plagam et adligato, ne aqua ventusve penetrare possit;deinde supra lutum muscum inponito et ita deligato. Ea res praebet humoremnec inarescere sinit.

[2] Then the vine which you are going to graft, cut back and smooth the wound, and split it thus, and let down the prepared slips into the fissure as far as they have been shaved, so that the bark of the scion may touch the bark of the vine evenly. Whatever you insert, having bound it carefully with the inner bark of the elm or with withy, smear the wound with well-kneaded clay tempered with chaff and tie it up, so that neither water nor wind can penetrate;then set moss above the clay and tie it on thus. That measure supplies moisture and does not allow it to dry out.

[3] Infra insitionem et adligaturam falce acuta levitervitem vulnerato ex utraque parte, ut ex his potius plagis humor defluat, quam ex insitione ipsa abundet; nocet enim nimius humor nec patitur surculosinsertos conprehendere. Quibusdam antiquorum terebrari vitem placet atqueita leviter adrasos surculos demitti, sed nos meliore ratione hoc idemfecimus. Nam antiqua terebra scobem facit et propter hoc urit eam partem, quam perforat; praeusta autem pars raro umquam conprehendit insertos surculos.

[3] Below the graft and the ligature, with a sharp pruning-knife lightly wound the vine on either side, so that from these wounds rather the humor (moisture) may drain off, than that from the grafting itself it overflow; for excessive humor harms and does not allow the inserted scions to take hold. Some of the ancients prefer that the vine be bored with an auger, and thus that slightly shaved scions be let down; but we have done this same thing by a better method. For the old-fashioned auger makes shavings, and on account of this burns the part which it perforates; but a pre-burnt part scarcely ever takes hold of the inserted scions.

[4] Nos rursus terebram, quam gallicanam dicimus, huicinsitioni aptavimus; ea excauat nec urit, quia non scobem, sed ramentafacit. Itaque cauatum foramen cum purgavimus, undique adrasos surculosinserimus atque ita circumlinimus. Talis insitio facillime convalescit.

[4] We in turn have adapted the auger which we call the Gallican to this grafting; it hollows out and does not scorch, because it makes not sawdust but scrapings. And so, when we have cleaned the hollowed aperture, we insert slips shaved on every side and thus smear around. Such a grafting most easily convalesces.

Igitur secundum aequinoctium perfectam vitium insitionem habeto; humidaloca de uva alba, sicca de nigra inserito.

Therefore, have the grafting of vines perfected after the equinox; graft moist places with white grape, dry with black.

INFRUCTUOSAS VITES FECUNDAS FACERE.

TO MAKE UNFRUITFUL VINES FRUITFUL.

Vites, quae exiguum dant fructum, aceto acri cum cinerearrigato ipsumque codicem eodem cinere linito.

Vines that give scant fruit, irrigate with acrid vinegar mixed with ash, and smear the stock itself with the same ash.

[5] At si fructum, quem ostendunt, ad maturitatem nonperducunt, sed, priusquam mitescant uvae, inarescunt, hoc modo emendabuntur. Cum instar ad erui amplitudinem acini habuerunt, radice tenus vitem praecidito, plagam acri aceto pariter ac lotio veteri permixta terra linito eodemqueradices rigato, saepe fodito. Materias citabit eaeque fructumperferunt.

[5] But if the vines do not bring the fruit they display to maturity, but, before the grapes mellow, they wither, they will be amended in this way. When the berries have reached a likeness to the size of a vetch-grain, cut the vine down to the root; smear the wound with sharp vinegar and with old lye mixed with earth, and with the same water the roots; dig often. It will rouse the shoots, and they will carry the fruit through to completion.

UT UVAE ACINORUM GENERA CONPLURA HABEANT.

THAT GRAPES HAVE SEVERAL KINDS OF BERRIES.

[1] Est etiam genus insitionis, quod uvas tales creat, inquibus varii generis ac saporis colorisque reperiuntur acini. Hoc autemratione tali efficitur: quattuor vel quinque, sive etiam plures voles, virgas diversi generis sumito easque diligenter et aequaliter conpositasconligato, deinde in tubulum fictilem vel cornu arte inserito, ita ut aliquantumexstent ab utraque parte easque partes, quae exstabunt, resolvito, in scrobemdeinde ponito et terra stercorata obruito ac rigato, donec gemmas agant.

[1] There is also a kind of grafting which creates such grapes, in which berries of various kind, flavor, and color are found. This is accomplished by such a method: take four or five, or even more if you wish, shoots of different kinds, and, having arranged them carefully and evenly, bind them together; then insert them skillfully into a little tube of clay or into a horn, in such a way that they project somewhat from both ends, and unfasten the parts which will project; then place it into a trench and cover it with manured earth and water it, until they put forth buds.

[2] Cum inter se virgae cohaeserint, post biennium auttriennium facta iam unitate dissolves tubulum et circa medium fere crus, ubi maxime videbuntur coisse, vitem serra praecidito et plagam levato terramqueminutam aggerato, ita ut tribus digitis alte plagam operiat; ex eo codicecum egerit coles, duos optimos submittito, reliquos deicito; sic uvae nascentur, quales proposuimus.

[2] When the rods have cohered to one another, after two years or three, the union now having been made, you will dissolve the small tubule and, about the middle of the stock, where they will seem most to have coalesced, cut the vine with a saw, smooth the wound, and heap up fine earth so that it covers the wound three fingers deep; from that stock, when it has put forth shoots, train up the two best, cast down the rest; thus grapes will be produced such as we have proposed.

AGIGARTA.

[3] Ut autem uvae sine vinaceis nascantur, malleolum finditoita, ne gemmae laedantur, medullamque omnem eradito; tum demum in se conpositumconligato, sic ne gemmas adlidas, atque ita terra stercorata deponito etrigato. Cum coles agere coeperit, saepe et alte refodito. Adulta vitistales uvas sine vinaceis creabit.

[3] But in order that grapes may be born without grape-stones, split the malleolus thus, so that the buds (gems) are not harmed, and scrape out all the medulla; then at last, composed upon itself, bind it together, in such a way that you do not bruise the buds, and thus set it down in manured earth and water it. When the shoots begin to put forth, dig it back often and deeply. A mature vine will produce such grapes without grape-stones.

VINEAM QUO MODO PUTES.

HOW TO PRUNE THE VINEYARD.

[1] Vindemia facta statim putare incipito ferramentis quamoptimis et acutissimis; ita plagae leves fient neque in vite aqua consisterepoterit, quae simulatque inmorata est, corrumpit vitem vermesque et aliacreat animalia, quae materiam exedunt. Plagas autem rotundas facito; namcelerius cicatricem ducunt.

[1] Once the vintage has been done, begin at once to prune with the very best and sharpest iron-tools; thus the cuts will be light, and water will not be able to stand on the vine, which, as soon as it has lingered, corrupts the vine and creates worms and other animals, which eat away the material (tissue). But make the cuts rounded; for they draw a cicatrix (scar) more quickly.

[2] Sarmenta lata, vetera, male nata, contorta, omniahaec praecidito; novella et fructuaria et interdum subolem idoneam, siiam superficies parum valebit, submittito brachiaque conservato. Quam celerrimepoteris, putationem perficito. Arida et vetera, falce quae amputari nonpossunt, acuta dolabra abradito.

[2] Broad shoots, old, ill-born, contorted—cut all these off; but the new and fructiferous ones, and at times a suitable offspring-shoot (subole), if now the upper growth (superficies) will be too weak, introduce, and preserve the arms (brachia). Complete the pruning as swiftly as you can. The dry and old wood, which cannot be amputated with the sickle, scrape away with a sharp dolabra.

In agro macro et sicco vineam inbecillamante brumam putato; quam partem non deputaveris, circa Kal. Februariasrepetito. Ab Idibus Decembribus ad Idus Ianuarias ferro tangi vitem etarborem non convenit.

In a lean and dry field, prune the feeble vine before winter; whatever part you have not pruned, revisit around the Kalends of February. From the Ides of December to the Ides of January it is not fitting for the vine and the tree to be touched with iron.

[3] Cum vitem putabis, inter duas gemmas secato; namsi iuxta ipsam gemmam secueris, laborabit nec materiem citabit. Cicatrixautem semper deorsum spectet; ita neque aqua neque sole laborabit humoremquerecte capiet. In agro crasso validaque vinea plures gemmas et palmas relinquito, in exili pauciores.

[3] When you prune the vine, cut between two buds; for if you cut right next to the bud itself, it will suffer and will not call forth material. Let the scar always face downward; thus it will not be harmed by water nor by sun, and it will take up moisture correctly. In heavy soil and with a strong vine leave more buds and palms; in thin soil, fewer.

Sicubi in vite brachium desiderabitur, falce acutasemel aut bis eo loco alte instar digiti mucrone ferito. Brachium quamvislongum cave totum tollas, nisi si totum arverit.

If anywhere in the vine an arm is lacking, with a sharp sickle strike in that place once or twice, deeply, with the point to the measure of a finger. However long the arm, beware of removing it entirely, unless it has wholly withered.

DE FOSSURA.

ON DIGGING.

[4] Vineam novellam ante brumam oblaqueatam habeto, utomnes imbres limumque concipiat. Vites arboresque, quo citius ablaqueaveris, erunt valentiores. Sed quaecumque in clivis erunt positae, ita ablaqueandaesunt, ut a superiore parte secundum codicem lacusculi fiant, ab inferioreautem pulvilli altiores excitentur, quo plus aquae

[4] Have the young vineyard trenched-around before midwinter, so that it may take in all the rains and silt. The vines and trees, the more quickly you ablaqueate them, the more robust they will be. But whatever are set on slopes must be ablaqueated in such a way that on the upper side, along the trunk, small basins be made, while on the lower side higher little berms be raised, in order that more water

[5] limique contineant. Vinea vetus neque oblaqueandaest, ne radices, quas in summo habet, inarescant, neque aranda, ne radicesabrumpantur. Bidentibus saepe et alte fodito aequaliter et stercore velpalea conspargito solum ante brumam vel, cum circum ipsam vitem summatimablaqueaveris, stercorato.

[5] and of mud they may contain. An old vineyard is neither to be oblaqueated, lest the roots which it has near the surface dry out, nor to be ploughed, lest the roots be broken off. With two-pronged (bidental) hoes dig often and deep, evenly; and with dung or chaff sprinkle the soil before the brumal season, or, when you have slightly ablaqueated around the vine itself, manure it.

DE PAMPINATIONE.

ON PAMPINATION.

[1] Vineam quam putare tam bene pampinare utile est; nam etmateriae, quae fructum habent, melius convalescunt et putatio sequentisanni expeditior, tum etiam vitis minus cicatricosa fit, quoniam quod virideet tenerum decerpitur, protinus convalescit.

[1] It is as useful to pampinate a vineyard as to prune it well; for both the fruit-bearing canes convalesce better and the pruning of the following year is more expeditious, and the vine too becomes less cicatricose, since what is green and tender, when plucked off, at once convalesces.

[2] Super haec quo melius maturescat, ante dies decem, quam vinea florere incipit, pampinatam habeto. Quicquid supervacui enatumfuerit, tollito. Quod in cacumine aut in brachiis natum erit, decerpito, dumtaxat quae uvam non habebunt.

[2] Moreover, that it may mature the better, have it pampinated ten days before the vine begins to flower. Whatever superfluous growth shall have sprung up, remove. Whatever shall have grown on the top or on the arms, pluck off, provided only those that will not have a grape.

Cacumina virgarum, ne luxurientur, demutilato. Uvas, quae meridiem aut occidentem spectabunt, ne praeurantur, suo sibipampino tegito.

Cut back the tips of the shoots, lest they grow luxuriant. The grapes that will look toward the south or the west, lest they be scorched, cover with their own vine-leaf.

XII

[1] Simulatque uva variari coeperit, fodito tertiam fossuramet cum iam maturescet, ante meridiem, priusquam calere incipiet, cum desierit, post meridiem fodito pulveremque excitato; ea res et a sole et a nebulamaxime uvam defendit. Lutulentam terram neque arare neque fodere oportet, quia valde durescit et finditur.

[1] As soon as the grape begins to variegate, dig the third trenching; and when it is now maturing, before midday, before it begins to be hot, and, when it has abated, after midday, dig and rouse the dust; this thing most of all defends the grape both from the sun and from mist. Muddy soil ought neither to be plowed nor dug, because it hardens greatly and splits.

[2] Bidentibus terram vertere utilius est, quam aratro. Bidens aequaliter totam terram vertit; aratrum praeterquam quod scamnafacit, tum etiam boves, qui arant, aliquantum virgarum et interdum totasvites frangunt. Finis autem fodiendi vineam nullus est; nam quanto saepiusfoderis, tanto uberiorem fructum reperies.

[2] It is more useful to turn the soil with two-toothed hoes than with the plow. The two-toothed hoe turns the whole soil evenly; the plow, besides the fact that it makes ridges, also causes the oxen that plow to break some canes and sometimes whole vines. Moreover, there is no limit to digging the vineyard; for the more often you dig, the more abundant a yield you will find.

XIII

NE RUBIGO VINEAM VEXET.

LEST RUST VEX THE VINEYARD.

[1] Palearum acervos inter ordines verno tempore positos habetoin vinea. Cum frigus contra temporis consuetudinem intellexeris, omnisacervos incendito. Ita fumus nebulam et rubiginem removebit.

[1] Keep heaps of chaff set between the rows in springtime in the vineyard. When you perceive cold contrary to the season’s customary course, set all the heaps ablaze. Thus the smoke will remove the fog and the rust (mildew).

XIV

NE FORMICA VITEM ASCENDAT.

THAT THE ANT NOT CLIMB THE VINE.

[1] Lupinum terito et cum fracibus misceto eoque imam vineamcircumlinito vel bitumen cum oleo coquito, eo quoque imas vites tangito:formicae non excedent.

[1] Grind lupine and mix it with lees, and with that smear around the base of the vine; or boil bitumen with oil, and with that too touch the lower parts of the vines: the ants will not pass.

NE SORICES UVAS COMEDANT.

LEST MICE EAT THE GRAPES.

[1] Vites, quae secundum aedificia sunt, a soricibus aut muribusinfestantur. Id ne fiat, plenam lunam observabimus, cum erit in signo Leonisvel Scorpionis vel Sagittarii vel Tauri et noctu ad lunam putabimus.

[1] Vines, which are next to buildings, are infested by shrews or mice. Lest this happen, we will observe the full moon, when it will be in the sign of Leo or Scorpio or Sagittarius or Taurus, and at night we will prune by the moon.

NE VOLUCRA VITEM LAEDAT.

LEST A BIRD HARM THE VINE.

Genus est animalis, volucra appellatur; id fere praeroditteneros adhuc pampinos et uvas. Quod ne fiat, falces, quibus vineam putaveris, peracta putatione, sanguine ursino linito; vel si pellem fibri habueris, in ipsa putatione, quotiens falcem acueris, ea pelle aciem detergeto atqueita putare incipito. Quoniam de vineis abunde diximus, de arbustis praecipiamus.

There is a kind of animal, called a bird; it commonly nibbles beforehand the still tender pampins (vine-shoots) and grapes. To keep this from happening, smear with bear’s blood the pruning-hooks with which you have pruned the vineyard, when the pruning is completed; or, if you have a beaver’s hide, during the pruning itself, whenever you sharpen the pruning-hook, wipe the edge with that hide, and thus begin to prune. Since we have said enough about vines, let us give instructions concerning tree-plantings.

XVI

DE ARBUSTIS.

ON ARBORETA.

[1] Vitem maxime populus alit, deinde ulmus, deinde fraxinus. Populus, quia non frondem idoneam habet, a plerisque inprobatur. Ulmusautem, quam Atiniam vocant rustici, generosissima est et laetissima multamquefrondem habet, eaque maxime serenda est locis pinguibus vel etiam mediocribus;sed si aspera et siticulosa loca arboribus obserenda erunt, neque populusneque ulmus tam idoneae sunt quam orni; eae autem silvestres fraxini sunt, paulo latioribus tamen foliis quam ceterae fraxini, nec deteriorem frondemquam ulmi praestant.

[1] The vine is most of all supported by the poplar, then by the elm, then by the ash. The poplar, because it does not have suitable frond, is disapproved by most. The elm, however, which the rustics call Atinia, is most noble and most luxuriant and has abundant frond, and it is especially to be planted in rich places, or even in moderate ones; but if rough and thirsty (arid) places are to be planted thick with trees, neither poplar nor elm are as suitable as the orni; these are wild ashes, with leaves a little broader than other ashes, and they furnish frond not worse than that of the elm.

[2] Caprae quidem et oves vel libentius etiam hanc frondemadpetunt. Igitur qui arbustum constituere volet, ante annum quam deponanturarbores, scrobes faciat quattuor quoquo annodeinde circa Kal.

[2] Goats indeed and sheep even more willingly seek this foliage. Therefore, whoever will wish to establish an arbustum, a year before the trees are planted, let him make pits four year then around the Kalends.

Martias in eandem scrobem ulmum et populum vel fraxinumdeponat, ut si ulmus defecerit, populus vel fraxinus locum obtineant. Siautem utraque vixerint, altera eximatur et alio loco disponatur. Arbustuminter quadragenos pedes dispositum esse convenit; sic enim et ipsae arboreset adpositae vites melius convalescent fructumque meliorem dabunt.

In March let him deposit into the same pit an elm and a poplar or an ash, so that if the elm should fail, the poplar or the ash may occupy the place. But if both survive, let one be taken out and be disposed in another place. It is fitting that the arbustum be disposed at intervals of forty feet; for thus both the trees themselves and the vines set beside them will convalesce better and will give better fruit.

Segetesetiam, quae

The crops also, which

[3] in eo erunt, minus umbra laborabunt.

[3] in that arrangement they will be, they will labor less under shade.

[4] Arborem, quam deposueris, saepius circumfodito, quocelerius adolescat, et triennium ferro ne tetigeris. Conpletis sex et trigintamensibus, ad recipiendam vitem formaris, supervacuos ramos amputabis, alternabrachia in modum scalarum relinques alternisque annis putabis; sexto anno, si iam firma videbitur, maritabis hoc modo. Ab ipso arboris crure pedalespatium intermittito; dein sulcum in quattuor pedes longum, in tres altum, in dupondium semissem latum cum feceris, patiere minime duobus mensibuseum tempestatibus verberari.

[4] The tree which you have planted, dig around more often, so that it may grow up more quickly, and do not touch it with iron for three years. When 36 months have been completed, you will shape it for receiving the vine: you will cut off superfluous branches, you will leave alternate arms in the manner of stairs, and you will prune in alternate years; in the sixth year, if it already seems firm, you will marry it in this way. From the very trunk of the tree leave a foot of space; then, when you have made a furrow four feet long, three deep, and two-and-a-half wide, allow it to be beaten by the weather for at least two months.

[5] Tum demum circa Kal. Martias vitem de seminario neminus decem pedum sternito et adminiculato arborique iungito; eam proximoanno ne putaveris, tertio vere ad unam virgam redigito paucasque gemmasrelinquito, ne, antequam inualverit, in altitudinem repat. Cum deinde amplumincrementum habuerit, per omnia arboris tabulata disponito materias, itatamen ne vitem oneres, sed certa et robustissima flagella submittas.

[5] Then at last, around the Kalends of March, lay the vine from the nursery at not less than ten feet, and adminiculate it and join it to the tree; do not prune it the next year; in the third spring reduce it to a single rod and leave a few buds, lest, before it has grown strong, it creep upward. When thereafter it has had ample increment, arrange the canes along all the tree’s tiers, yet in such a way that you do not overload the vine, but that you submit only the surest and most robust shoots.

Arbustivamvitem quam putare tam alligare diligenter oportet. Nam in eo fructus maximevis consistit diutiusque perennat, quae firmis toris et idoneis locis religataest. Itaque omnibus annis convenit subsequi putationem, ita ut tori renoventuret vitis per idoneos ramos disponatur.

The arbustive vine one ought diligently both to prune and to tie; for in this the fruit’s greatest vigor consists, and it endures longer, when it is bound with firm ties and in suitable places. Therefore every year it is fitting to follow up with pruning, in such a way that the ties are renovated and the vine is arranged along suitable branches.

XVII

DE OLIVETO.

ON THE OLIVE-GROVE.

[1] Olea maxime collibus siccis et argillosis gaudet; at humidiscampis et pinguibus laetam frondem sine fructu adfert. Melius autem truncisquam plantis olivetum constituitur. Magoni placet siccis locis olivam autumnopost aequinoctium seri ante brumam; nostrae aetatis agricolae fere vernumtempus circa Kal.

[1] The olive especially rejoices in dry and argillaceous hills; but in wet and fat fields it brings a luxuriant frond without fruit. Moreover, an olive-grove is better established by trunks than by saplings. Mago thinks that in dry places the olive should be sown in autumn after the equinox, before the bruma; the farmers of our age generally (prefer) the vernal time around the Kalends.

Maias servant.

they observe the Kalends of May.

[2] Oportet autem scrobem oleae quoquoversus pedes quaternospatere, in imum scrobem lapidem glareamque abicere, deinde super terramquattuor digitorum inicere, tum arbusculam deponere ita rectam, ut quodscrobe exstiterit, in medio sit, arbusculam autem a tempestatibus tueridiligenter adminiculando et terram, quae in scrobem reponitur, stercoremiscere.

[2] It is proper that the pit for the olive should extend four feet in every direction; into the bottom of the pit cast stone and gravel, then throw over them earth four fingers thick; then set down the little tree so straight that what projects above the pit is in the middle; and protect the sapling from storms by carefully propping it with supports, and mix the earth which is put back into the pit with manure.

[3] Oleam decet inter sexagenos pedes disponi, ut spatiumin latitudinem crescendi habeat; nam quae in proceritatem extenduntur, evanidae fiunt parumque fructus ferunt. Optima est oleo Liciniana, posiasecunda oleo, escae orchites. Sunt et regiae et radii non sine specie nequeoleo neque esui tam gratae quam quas supra diximus.

[3] It is proper to arrange the olive at intervals of sixty feet, so that it may have space to grow in breadth; for those which stretch upward into height become feeble and bear too little fruit. The best for oil is the Liciniana, the posia second for oil, and for table-use the orchites. There are also the regiae and the radii, not without appearance, yet neither for oil nor for eating so welcome as those which we have said above.

Si oleam posueris eoloco, unde quercus effossa est, emorietur, ideo quod quidam vermes, quiraucae dicuntur, in radice quercus nascuntur eique maxime semina oleaeconsumunt. Si in olea unus ramus aliquanto ceteris laetior est, nisi eumrecideris, arbor tota fiet retorrida.

If you plant an olive in the place whence an oak has been dug out, it will die, because certain worms, which are called raucae, are generated in the root of the oak and consume especially the olive’s seeds. If on an olive one branch is somewhat more luxuriant than the others, unless you cut it back, the whole tree will become withered.

[4] Omnes arbusculas prius quam transferas, rubrica notareconvenit, ut, cum serentur, easdem caeli partes aspiciant, quas etiam inseminario conspexerant; alioquin frigore vel calore laborabunt ab iis partibus, quas contra consuetudinem sub alio aere positas habuerint.

[4] All the little trees, before you transplant them, it is proper to mark with red ochre, so that, when they are planted, they may face the same parts of the sky that they had also faced in the nursery (seminary); otherwise they will suffer from cold or heat from those quarters, having been placed under a different air contrary to their habit.

XVIII

DE POMARIO CONSTITUENDO.

ON ESTABLISHING AN ORCHARD.

[1] Priusquam pomarium constituas, quam magnum habere voles, circummunito macerie aut fossa, ita ut non solum pecori, sed nec hominitransitus sit nisi per ostium, dum adolescant semina. Nam si saepius cacuminamanu praefracta aut a pecore praerosa fuerint in perpetuum corrumpuntur.

[1] Before you establish an orchard, of whatever magnitude you wish to have, fortify it all around with a dry-stone wall or a fosse, so that there is passage neither for cattle nor even for a man except through the gate, while the seedlings grow up. For if the tops have been repeatedly broken off by hand or gnawed by cattle, they are corrupted in perpetuity.

[2] Generatim autem arbores disponere utile est, maximene inbecilla a valentiore prematur, quia nec viribus nec magnitudine suntpares neque pariter crescunt. Terra, quae vitibus apta est, eadem quoqueutilis est arboribus.

[2] To dispose the trees by kinds is useful, especially lest the feeble be pressed by the stronger, since they are not equal either in powers or in magnitude, nor do they grow equally. The earth which is apt for vines is likewise useful for trees.

XIX

DE SCROBIBUS FACIENDIS.

ON MAKING PITS.

[1] Ante annum quam poma disponere voles, scrobes fodito. Ita sole pluviaque macerabuntur et quod posueris cito conprehendet. Sedsi quo anno scrobes feceris, etiam semina ponere voles, minime ante duosmenses fodito scrobes, postea stramentis eos inpleto et incendito.

[1] A year before you wish to set out the fruit-trees, dig the pits. Thus they will be macerated by sun and rain, and what you have placed will quickly take hold. But if, in the very year in which you make the pits, you also wish to set the seeds, by no means dig the pits earlier than two months beforehand; afterward fill them with straw and set them on fire.

Quolatiores patentioresque scrobes feceris, hoc erunt laetiores uberioresquefructus.

The wider and more patent the pits you make, the more luxuriant and more abundant the fruits will be.

[2] Scrobis clibano similis esto, imus quam summus patentior, ut laxius radices vagentur ac minus frigoris minusque aestate vaporis perangustum ostium intret, tum etiam clivosis locis terra, quae in eum congestaest, pluviis non abluatur.

[2] Let the pit be like a clibanus (oven), the bottom wider than the top, so that the roots may roam more loosely, and so that less cold and, in summer, less vapor of heat may enter the very narrow mouth; then also, in sloping places, the earth which has been heaped into it may not be washed away by rains.

[3] Arbores raris intervallis serito, ut cum creverint, spatium habeant, quo ramos extendant. Nam si spisse posueris, neque infraquid serere poteris nec sic ipsae fructuosae erunt, nisi intervulseris. Itaque placet inter ordines quadragenos pedes minimumque trigenos relinqui.

[3] Plant trees at rare intervals, so that, when they have grown, they may have space in which to extend their branches. For if you place them densely, neither will you be able to sow anything beneath, nor will they themselves be fruitful in that way, unless you thin them out. And so it is preferred that between the rows forty feet—and at the minimum thirty—be left.

QUOMODO SEMINA LEGAS.

HOW TO SELECT SEEDS.

[1] Semina lege, ne minus crassa, quam manubrium est bidentis, recta, levia, procera, sine ulceribus, integro libro. Ea bene et celeriterconprehendunt. Semina si ex arboribus sumes, de iis potissimum sumito, quae omnibus annis bonos et uberes ferunt fructus.

[1] Choose scions, not less thick than the handle of a two-pronged hoe, straight, smooth, long, without ulcers, with the bark intact. These take well and quickly. If you take scions from trees, take them preferably from those which every year bear good and abundant fruits.

Observabis autem abhumeris, qui sunt contra solem orientem, ut eosdem decerpas. Sed si cumradice plantam posueris, incrementum ei <mai>us futurum quam ceterissenties.

You will observe, moreover, from the shoulders, which are opposite the rising sun, to pluck those very ones. But if you set the plant with the root, you will perceive that its growth will be greater than the others.

[2] Arbos insita fructuosior, quam quae insita non est, id est, quam quae ramis aut plantis ponitur. Priusquam arbusculas transferas, rubrica vel alia qualibet re signato, ut isdem ventis, quibus ante steterunt, constituas eas, curamque adhibeto, ut ab superiore et sicciore et exiliorein planiorem, humidiorem, pinguiorem agrum transferas. Semina trifurcamaxime ponito; ea exstent supra terram tribus pedibus.

[2] A grafted tree is more fruitful than one that is not grafted, that is, than one that is set by branches or by slips. Before you transplant the little trees, mark them with red ocher or with any other thing, so that you may set them in the same winds in which they stood before; and take care to transfer them from a higher, drier, and more meager place into a more level, more humid, more rich soil. Plant seedlings that are especially three-forked; let them stand out above the earth by three feet.

Si in eodem scrobeduas aut tres arbusculas ponere voles, curato, ne inter se contingant;nam ita vermibus interibunt.

If in the same pit you wish to set two or three saplings, take care that they do not touch one another; for in that way they will perish from worms.

[3] Cum semina depones, dextra sinistraque usque in imumscrobem fasciculos sarmentorum brachii humani crassitudine deponito, itaut supra terram paululum exstent, per quos aestate paruo labore aquam radicibussubministres. arbores aut semina radicibus autumno serito circaIdus Octobres. Taleas et ramos vere, antequam germinare arbores incipiunt, deponito.

[3] When you set down the seeds, on the right and on the left, all the way to the bottom of the pit, place bundles of prunings of the thickness of a human arm, so that they protrude a little above the ground, through which in summer with little labor you may supply water to the roots. Plant trees or seeds with roots in autumn, around the Ides of October. Set down cuttings and branches in spring, before the trees begin to germinate.

Sed ne tinea molesta sit seminibus ficulneis, in imum scrobemtaleam lentisci, ita ut cacumen eius deorsum spectet, obruito.

But lest the moth be troublesome to fig seeds, bury in the bottom of the pit a cutting of lentisk, in such a way that its tip faces downward.

XXI

QUANDO FICUS SERENDA SIT.

WHEN THE FIG-TREE OUGHT TO BE PLANTED.

[1] Ficum frigoribus ne serito. Loca aprica, calculosa, glareosa, interdum et saxeta amat. Eiusmodi agro cito convalescit, si scrobes amploset idoneos feceris.

[1] Do not plant the fig in frosts. It loves sunny places, pebbly, gravelly, and sometimes even rocky. In soil of this kind it quickly thrives, if you make the pits large and suitable.

Ficorum genera, etiam si sapore et habitu differunt, tamen uno modo, sed dispari loco pro differentia agri seruntur. Locis frigidiset autumni temporibus aquosis praecoques serito, ut ante pluviam fructumdeligas; locis calidis hibernas serotinas serito. At si voles ficum quamvisnon natura seram facere, cum grossuli minuti erunt, fructum decutito; itaalterum edet fructum, in hiemem seram differet maturitatem.

The kinds of figs, even if they differ in flavor and habit, are nevertheless planted in one way, but in dissimilar locations according to the difference of the field. In cold places and when the autumn seasons are watery, plant early-ripening varieties, so that you may gather the fruit before the rain; in hot places plant the winter late-ripening kinds. But if you wish to make a fig-tree bear a late crop, although not by nature, when the little grossuli are small, shake off the fruit; thus it will put forth a second crop, it will defer its ripeness late into the winter.

[2] Nonnunquam etiam, cum frondere coeperint arbores, cacumina fici acutissimo ferramento summa amputare prodest. Sic firmioresarbores et feraciores fiunt. Semper proderit, simul ac folia agere coeperitficus, rubricam amurca diluere et cum stercore humano ad radicem infundere;ea res efficit uberiorem fructum et fartum fici speciosius et plenius.

[2] Sometimes also, when the trees have begun to leaf, it is useful to cut off the very tops of the fig with a very sharp iron implement. Thus the trees become sturdier and more fertile. It will always be of use, as soon as the fig has begun to put forth leaves, to dilute rubrica with amurca and to pour it together with human dung at the root; this brings about more abundant fruit and the stuffing of the fig more comely and fuller.

XXII

DE CETERIS POMIS.

ON THE OTHER FRUITS.

[1] Nucem Graecam serito Arcturi signo vel circa Kal. Februarias, quia prima gemmascit. Agrum calidum, durum, siccum desiderat.

[1] Plant the Greek nut (walnut) under the sign of Arcturus or around the Kalends of February (about 1 February), because it is the first to bud. It requires a warm, firm, dry soil.

Nam in locisdiversis eiusmodi natura si posueris nucem, protinus putrescet. Ante quamnucem deponas, in aqua mulsa, ne nimis dulci macerato; ita iucundiorissaporis fructum, cum adoleverit, praebebit et interim melius atque celeriusnascetur.

For if you set a walnut in places differing from this sort of nature, it will straightway putrefy. Before you lay down the walnut, soak it in honeyed water, not too sweet; thus, when it has matured, it will proffer fruit of more agreeable savor, and in the meantime it will sprout better and more quickly.

[2] Ternas nuces in trigonum statuito, parsque acutiorinferior sit, quia inde radices mittit, nuxque a nuce minime palmo absitet anceps ad Favonium spectet. Omnis nux unam radicem mittit et simplicistilo prorepit. Cum ad scrobis solum radix pervenit, duritia humi coercitarecuruatur et extensa in modum ramorum alias radices emittit.

[2] Set three nuts in a triangle, and let the sharper part be lower, because from there it sends roots; and let nut from nut be at least a palm distant, and let the two-edged seam face toward Favonius (the West Wind). Every nut sends one root and creeps forward with a simple shoot. When the root reaches the bottom of the pit, constrained by the hardness of the ground it is bent back, and, stretched out in the manner of branches, it sends out other roots.

Nucem Graecamet Avellanam Tarentinas hoc modo facere poteris.

You will be able to make the Greek nut and the Avellan (hazel) nut Tarentine in this way.

[3] In quo scrobe destinaveris nuces serere, terram minutamin modum semipedis ponito ibique semen ferulae iacito. Cum ferula fueritenata, eam findito et in medullam eius sine putamine nucem Graecam velAvellanam abscondito et ita adobruito. Hoc ante Kal.

[3] In the pit in which you have resolved to sow the nuts, place finely crumbled earth to the measure of a half‑foot, and there cast the seed of the ferula. When the ferula has sprung up, split it, and into its pith hide, without the shell, a Greek nut (walnut) or an Avellane (hazel‑nut), and thus cover it back over. Do this before the Kal.

Martias facito, veletiam inter Nonas et Idus Martias. Hoc eodem tempore iuglandem et pineamet castaneam serere oportet.

Do it in March, or even between the Nones and the Ides of March. At this same time it is proper to plant the walnut and the pine and the chestnut.

XXIII

[1] Malum Punicum vere usque in Kal. Apriles recte seritur. Quod si acidum aut minus dulcem fructum feret, hoc modo emendabitur.

[1] The Punic apple (pomegranate) is properly planted in spring up to the Kalends of April. But if it bears a sour or less sweet fruit, it will be amended in this way.

Stercoresuillo et humano et lotio humano veteri radices rigato. Ea res et fertilemarborem reddet et primitivos annos fructum vinosum, post vero etiam dulcemet apyrinum facit. Nos exiguum admodum laser cyrenaicum vino diluimus etita cacumina arboris summa oblevimus; ea res emendavit acorem malorum.

Irrigate the roots with pig dung and human dung and old human urine. This procedure will both render the tree fertile and, in the first years, make the fruit vinous, but afterward even sweet and apyrine (seedless). We diluted a very small amount of Cyrenaic laser (silphium) in wine and thus smeared over the very tops of the tree; this corrected the sourness of the fruits.

[2] Mala Punica ne rumpantur in arbore, remedio placuit, lapides tres si, cum seres arborem, ad radicem ipsam conlocaveris. At siiam arborem satam habueris, scillam secundum radicem arboris serito. Aliomodo, cum iam matura mala fuerint, ante quam rumpantur, petiolos, quibuspendent, intorqueto.

[2] Punic apples, lest they burst on the tree, a remedy has pleased: if, when you plant the tree, you place three stones at the very root. But if you already have the tree planted, plant a squill next to the root of the tree. Otherwise, when the apples are already ripe, before they burst, twist the petioles by which they hang.

Eo modo servabuntur etiam anno toto.

In that way they will be preserved even for the whole year.

XXIV

[1] Piros autumno ante brumam serito, ita ut minime dies quinqueet viginti ad brumam supersint. Quae ut sint feraces, cum iam adoleverint, alte ablaqueato et iuxta ipsam radicem truncum findito. In fissuram cuneumpineum tedae adicito et ibi relinquito; deinde obruta oblaqueatione cineremsupra terram spargito.

[1] Plant pear trees in autumn before the bruma (midwinter), so that not less than 25 days remain until the bruma. In order that they be feracious, when they have now grown up, dig away deeply around them, and split the trunk right next to the root itself. Into the fissure insert a pine wedge of torch-wood (pitch-pine) and leave it there; then, after covering back the ablaqueation, sprinkle ash upon the ground.

XXV

[1] Mala aestiva, cydonea, sorba, pruna post mediam hiememusque in Idus Februarias serito. Morum ab Idibus Februariis usque in aequinoctiumvernale recte seres. Siliquam Graecam, quam quidam ceratium vocant, itemPersicum ante brumam per autumnum serito.

[1] Plant summer apples, Cydonian quinces, sorb-apples, plums after midwinter up to the Ides of February. The mulberry you may properly plant from the Ides of February up to the vernal equinox. The Greek siliqua (carob), which some call ceratium, likewise the Persic (peach), plant before the winter solstice, throughout autumn.

Amygdala si parum feracia erunt, per forata arbore lapidem adigito; ita librum arboris inolescere sinito.

If the almond-trees are too unfruitful, drive a stone through the tree after perforating it; thus allow the tree’s bark to grow in.

DE SEMINARIO FACIENDO.

ON MAKING THE SEMINARY (SEEDBED).

[2] Omnium autem generum ramos circa Kal. Martias in hortis, ubi et subacta et stercorata terra est, per pulvinos arearum disponereconvenit, deinde cum tenuerint, danda est opera, ut dum teneros ramuloshabent, veluti pampinentur et ad unum stilum primo anno semina redigantur;et cum autumnus incesserit, ante quam frigus cacumina adurat, omnia foliadecerpere expediet et ita crassis harundinibus, quae ab una parte nodosintegros habent, quasi pilleolos induere atque ita a frigore et gelicidiisteneras adhuc virgas tueri. Post quartum et vicesimum deinde mensem, sivetransferre et disponere in ordinem voles seu inserere, satis tuto utrumquefacies.

[2] But the branches of all kinds it is fitting to arrange about the Kalends of March in the gardens, where the soil is both worked and manured, along the mounded beds of the plots; then, when they have taken hold, effort must be given that, while they have tender little branches, they be, as it were, vine-pruned, and that in the first year the plantlets be reduced to a single stem; and when autumn has set in, before the cold sears the tips, it will be expedient to pluck off all the leaves and then to fit on thick reeds, which on one side have intact nodes, like little caps, and thus to protect the still tender rods from cold and frosts. After the 24th month, then, whether you will to transplant and set them in order or to graft, you will do either quite safely.

XXVI

DE INSITIONE.

ON GRAFTING.

[1] Omnis surculus inseri potest, si non est ei arbori, cuiinseritur, dissimilis cortice; si vero fructum etiam eodem tempore fert, sine ullo scrupulo optime inseritur. Tria autem genera insitionum antiquitradiderunt: unum, quod resecta et fissa arbore recipit insertos surculos;alterum, quo resecta inter librum et materiem admittit semina, quae utraquegenera verni temporis sunt; tertium, cum ipsas gemmas cum exigua corticein partem sui delibratam recipit, quam vocant agricolae emplastrationem;hoc genus aestatis est.

[1] Every shoot can be grafted, if it is not dissimilar in bark to the tree on which it is grafted; and if it also bears fruit at the same time, it is most excellently grafted without any scruple. Moreover, the ancients handed down three kinds of graftings: one, in which a tree, cut back and split, receives inserted shoots; a second, in which, the tree having been cut back, it admits slips between the inner bark and the wood—both kinds are of the vernal season; a third, when it receives the very buds with a small piece of bark onto a part of itself pared of bark, which the farmers call emplastration; this kind belongs to summertime.

[2] Quarum insitionum rationem cum tradiderimus, a nobisquoque repertam docebimus. Omnes arbores simulatque gemmas agere coeperint, luna crescente inserito, olivam autem circa aequinoctium vernum usque inIdus Apriles. Ex qua arbore inserere voles et surculos ad insitionem sumpturuses, videto, ut sit tenera et ferax nodisque crebris, et cum primum germinatumebunt, de ramulis anniculis, qui solis ortum spectabunt et integri erunt, eos legito crassitudine minimi digiti; surculi sint bisulci.

[2] Having handed down the method of these graftings, we shall also teach one discovered by us. Graft all trees as soon as they begin to put forth buds, at the waxing moon; the olive, however, around the vernal equinox up to the Ides of April. From whatever tree you wish to graft and from which you are going to take scions for grafting, see that it is tender and fertile and with frequent nodes; and when they first have begun to sprout, from the one-year-old little branches which look toward the rising of the sun and are uninjured, choose those of the thickness of the little finger; let the scions be two-budded.

[3] Arborem, quam inserere voles, serra diligenter exsecatoea parte, quae maxime nitida et sine cicatrice est, dabisque operam, nelibrum laedas. Cum deinde truncam reddideris, acuto ferramento plagam levato;dein quasi cuneum ferreum vel osseum inter corticem et materiem, ne minusdigitos tres, sed lente dimittito, ne laedas aut rumpas corticem.

[3] The tree which you will wish to graft, cut out carefully with a saw in that part which is most polished and without cicatrix (scar), and take care not to injure the inner bark (liber). When then you have reduced it to a stump, with a sharp iron implement smooth the wound; then insert, as a wedge, iron or osseous, between the bark and the wood, to not less than three fingers, but let it in slowly, so that you do not injure or tear the bark.

[4] Postea surculos, quos inserere voles, falce acutaab una parte eradito tam alte quam cuneum demisisti, sed ita ne medullamneve alterius partis corticem laedas; ubi surculos paratos habueris, cuneumvellito statimque surculos demittito in ea foramina, quae cuneo adactointer corticem et materiem facta sunt. Ea autem fine, qua adraseris, surculosdemittito ita, ut sex digitis de arbore exstent. In una autem arbore duosaut tres ramulos figito, dum ne minus quaternum digitorum inter eos sitspatium.

[4] Afterwards, the little shoots which you wish to graft, pare on one side with a sharp sickle as deep as you have driven the wedge down, but in such a way that you do not injure the pith nor the bark on the other side; when you have the shoots prepared, pull out the wedge and at once let the shoots down into those openings which have been made by the wedge driven in between the bark and the wood. Insert the shoots by that end which you have shaved, so that they stand out six digits from the tree. On one tree, moreover, fix two or three twigs, provided that there is not less than four digits of space between them.

Pro arboris magnitudine et corticis bonitate haec facito.

Do these things in proportion to the tree’s magnitude and the bark’s quality.

[5] Cum omnes surculos, quos arbor patietur, demiseris, libro ulmi vel vimine arborem adstringito; postea paleato luto bene subactooblinito totam plagam et spatium, quod est inter surculos usque eo, utduobus digitis insita exstent; supra lutum muscum inponito et ita adligato, ne pluvia dilabatur.

[5] When you have inserted all the slips which the tree will tolerate, bind the tree with elm bast or with withy; afterwards smear over with chaff-mixed mud well kneaded the whole wound and the space which is between the slips, to this point, that the grafts stand out by two digits; upon the mud place moss and bind it thus, lest it be washed away by rain.

[6] Si pusillam arborem inserere voles, iuxta terramabscidito, ita ut sesquipedem a terra exstet. Cum deinde abscideris, plagamdiligenter levato et medium truncum acuto scalpro modice findito, ita utfissura trium digitorum sit. In eam deinde cuneum, quo dispaletur, inseritoet surculos ex utraque parte adrasos demittito, ita ut librum seminis libroarboris aequalem facias.

[6] If you wish to graft a small tree, cut it off near the ground, so that it stands a foot and a half above the soil. Then, when you have cut it, smooth the wound carefully and split the middle of the trunk moderately with a sharp chisel, so that the fissure is three finger-breadths. Into it then insert a wedge, by which it may be spread open, and let down slips shaved on both sides, so that you make the bark of the scion equal to the bark of the tree.

Cum surculos diligenter aptaveris, cuneum vellitoet arborem, ut supra dixi, alligato et oblinito; dein terram circa arboremaggerato usque ad ipsum insitum. Ea res a vento et calore maxime tuebitur.

When you have carefully fitted the shoots, pull out the wedge and, as I said above, bind and plaster the tree; then heap up the earth around the tree up to the graft itself. This will guard it especially from wind and heat.

[7] Tertium genus insitionis, cum sit subtilissimum, non omni generi arborum idoneum est, et fere eae recipiunt talem insitionem, quae humidum sucosumque et validum librum habent, sicuti ficus. Nam etlactis plurimum remittit et corticem robustam habet. Optime itaque ea inseriturtali ratione.

[7] The third genus of grafting, since it is most subtle, is not suitable for every genus of trees, and generally those receive such grafting which have moist and succulent juices and a strong liber, such as the fig. For it also sends forth very much milk and has a robust bark. Most excellently, therefore, it is grafted by such a method.

[8] Ex qua arbore inserere voles, in ea quaerito novelloset nitidos ramos. In his deinde observato gemmam, quae bene apparebit certamquespem germinis habebit; eam duobus digitis quadratis circumsignato, ut gemmamedia sit, et ita acuto scalpello circumcisam diligenter, ne gemmam laedas, delibrato. Item quam arborem inserere voles, in ea nitidissimum ramum eligitoet eiusdem spatii corticem circumcidito et a materie delibrato.

[8] From the tree from which you wish to graft, seek in it young and glossy branches. On these then observe a bud, which will show clearly and will have a sure hope of a shoot; mark it out two finger-breadths square, so that the bud is in the middle, and thus, with a sharp scalpel, having cut around, carefully strip it off, lest you injure the bud. Likewise, in the tree which you wish to graft, choose the glossiest branch and cut around bark of the same size and strip it from the wood.

Deindein eam partem, quam nudaveris, gemmam, quam ex altera arbore sumpseras, aptato, ita ut ante emplastrum circumcisae parti conveniat.

Then into that part which you have laid bare, fit the bud which you had taken from the other tree, such that, before the emplaster, it may correspond to the circumcised part.

[9] Ubi haec feceris, circa gemmam bene vincito, itane laedas; deinde conmissuras et vincula luto oblinito, spatio relicto, qua gemma libere germinet. Materiem quam inseveris, si subolem vel supraramum habebit, omnia praecidito, ne quid sit, quo possit avocari aut cuimagis quam insito serviat. Post unum et vicesimum diem solvito emplastrum.

[9] When you have done these things, bind well around the bud, so that you do not injure it; then smear the commissures and the bindings with clay, leaving a space where the bud may sprout freely. The stock into which you have inserted the bud—if it has an under-shoot or an upper branch—cut them all off, lest there be anything by which it can be diverted, or which it may serve rather than the graft. After 21 days, remove the plaster.

Hoc genere optime etiam olea inseritur. Quartum illud genus insitionisiam docuimus, cum de vitibus disputavimus; itaque supervacuum est hoc locorepetere iam traditam rationem terebrationis.

By this kind, the olive too is most excellently grafted. That fourth kind of grafting we have already taught, when we discussed the vines; and so it is superfluous in this place to repeat the already tradited method of terebration.

XXVII

[1] Sed cum antiqui negaverint posse omne genus surculorumin omnem arborem inseri et illam quasi infinitionem, qua nos paulo anteusi sumus, veluti quandam legem sanxerint, eos tantum surculos posse coalescere, qui sint cortice ac libro et fructu consimiles iis arboribus, quibus inseruntur, existimavimus errorem huius opinionis discutiendum tradendamque posterisrationem, qua possit omne genus surculi omni generi arboris inseri.

[1] But since the ancients denied that every kind of scion could be grafted into every tree, and sanctioned as a sort of law that definition which we a little earlier employed—namely, that only those scions can coalesce which are similar in bark and liber (inner bark) and in fruit to the trees into which they are inserted—we judged that the error of this opinion must be examined, and that the method must be handed down to posterity whereby every kind of scion can be grafted upon every kind of tree.

[2] Quod ne longiori exordio legentes fatigemus, unumquasi exemplum subiciemus, qua similitudine quod quisque genus volet omniarbori poterit inserere.

[2] So that we may not fatigue our readers with a longer exordium, we will subjoin one, as it were, example, by whose similitude anyone will be able to graft whatever kind upon any tree.

OLIVAM FICO INSERERE.

GRAFT THE OLIVE ONTO THE FIG.

Scrobem quoquoversus pedum quattuor ab arbore olivae tamlonge fodito, ut extremi rami oleae possint eam contingere. In scrobemdeinde fici arbusculam deponito diligentiamque adhibeto, ut robusta etnitida fiat.

Dig a pit on every side, four feet from the olive tree, so far that the extreme branches of the olive can touch it. Into the pit then set down a little fig tree, and apply diligence, that it may become robust and sleek.

[3] Post triennium aut quinquennium, cum iam satis amplumincrementum ceperit, ramum olivae, qui videbitur nitidissimus, deflecteet ad crus arboris ficulneae religa atque ita amputatis ceteris ramulisea tantum cacumina, quae inserere voles, relinquito; tum arborem fici detruncatoplagamque levato et mediam cuneo findito.

[3] After three or five years, when it has now taken a sufficiently ample increment, bend down the branch of the olive that will seem the most sleek and vigorous, and tie it to the shank of the fig-tree; and thus, with the other little twigs cut away, leave only those tips which you wish to insert as grafts; then truncate the fig-tree, smooth the wound, and split the middle with a wedge.

[4] Cacumina deinde olivae, sicuti matri inhaerent, utraqueparte adradito et ita fissurae fici aptato cuneumque eximito et diligenterconligato, ne qua vi revellantur. Sic interposito triennio coalescet ficusolivae, et tum demum quarto anno, cum bene coierit, velut propaginis ramulosolivae ramos a matre resecabis. Hoc modo omne genus in omnem arborem inseritur.

[4] Then the tips of the olive, just as they inhere to the mother, scrape on either side, and so fit them to the fissure of the fig; take out the wedge and bind carefully, lest by any force they be torn away. Thus, with a three-year interval interposed, the fig will coalesce with the olive, and then at last in the fourth year, when it has well come together, as from a propagine (layering) you will cut off the olive twigs from the mother. In this way every kind is grafted into every tree.

XXVIII

DE CYTISO.

ON THE CYTISUS.

[1] Cytisum, quod Graeci aut zeas aut carnicin aut trypherenvocant, quam plurimum habere expedit, quod gallinis, apibus, ovibus, capris, bubus quoque et omni generi pecudum utilissimum est, quod ex eo cito pinguescitet lactis plurimum praebet ovibus, tum etiam octo mensibus viridi eo pabulouti et postea arido possis. Praeterea in quolibet agro quamvis macerrimoceleriter conprehendit omnemque iniuriam sine noxa patitur.

[1] Cytisus, which the Greeks call either zeas or carnicin or trypheren, it is expedient to have in the greatest quantity, because it is most useful for hens, bees, sheep, goats, oxen too, and every kind of herd-beast, since on it they quickly grow fat and it furnishes a very great amount of milk to sheep; then also, for eight months you can use it as green fodder, and afterwards as dry. Moreover, in any field, however very meager, it quickly takes hold and suffers every injury without harm.

[2] Mulieres quidem, si lactis inopia premuntur, cytisumaridum in aqua macerari oportet; cum tota nocte permaduerit, postero dieexpressi suci ternas heminas permisceri modico vino atque ita potandumdare; sic et ipsae valebunt et pueri abundantia lactis confirmabuntur. satio autem cytisi vel autumno circa Idus Octobres vel vere fieri potest.

[2] Women, indeed, if they are pressed by a scarcity of milk, ought to have dry cytisus macerated in water; when it has been thoroughly soaked through the whole night, on the following day three heminae of the expressed juice are to be mixed with a little wine and thus given to drink; so both they themselves will be well and the children will be strengthened by an abundance of milk. Moreover, the sowing of cytisus can be done either in autumn around the Ides of October or in spring.

[3] Cum terram bene subegeris, in modum olerum areasfacito ibique velut ocimum semen cytisi autumno serito; plantas deindevere disponito, ita ut inter se quoquoversus quattuor pedum spatio distent. Si semen non habueris, cacumina cytisorum vere disponito, stercoratam terramcirca aggerato. Si pluvia non incesserit, rigato quindecim proximis diebus.

[3] When you have well prepared the soil, make plots in the manner of vegetables, and there, as with basil, sow in autumn the seed of cytisus; then in spring set out the plants, so that they are spaced four feet apart every way. If you do not have seed, set out the tops of the cytisus in spring, and heap manured earth around. If rain has not set in, water for the next fifteen days.

Simul ac nouam frondem agere coeperit, sarrito. Post triennium deinde caeditoet pecori praebeto.

As soon as it begins to put forth new frondage, hoe it. Then after three years cut it and proffer it to the herd.

[4] Equo abunde est viridis pondo quindecim, bovi pondoviginti ceterisque pecudibus pro portione virium. Potest autem etiam circasaepem Aridum si dabis, exiguius dato, quoniam maioresvires habet, priusque aqua macerato et exemptum paleis permisceto. Cytisum, quod aridum facere voles, circa mensem Septembrem, cum semen eius grandescereincipiet, caedito.

[4] For a horse, 15 pounds of green fodder is abundantly sufficient; for an ox, 20 pounds; and for the rest of the herd in proportion to their strength. Moreover, cytisus can also be sown quite conveniently around the hedge of the field by means of branches, since it readily takes hold and withstands injury. If you give it dry, give a smaller amount, since it has greater potency; and first macerate it in water, and, once taken out, thoroughly mix it with chaff. As for the cytisus which you wish to make dry, cut it around the month of September, when its seed begins to grow large.

Paucis deinde horis, dum flaccescat, in sole habeto. Deinde in umbra adsiccato et ita condito.

Then for a few hours, keep it in the sun until it becomes flaccid. Then dry it in the shade and store it thus.

XXIX

DE SALICE ET GENISTA.

ON THE WILLOW AND THE BROOM.

[1] Salicem et genistam crescente luna vere circa Kal. Martiasserito. Salix humida loca desiderat, genista etiam sicca, utraque tamencirca vineam opportune seruntur, quoniam palmitibus idonea praebent vincula.

[1] Plant the willow and the genista, with the moon waxing, in spring, around the Kalends of March. The willow desires moist places; the genista even dry ones; nevertheless both are suitably planted around the vineyard, since they provide bindings fit for the vine-shoots.

DE HARUNDINE.

ON THE REED.

Harundo optime seritur, quos alii bulbos, alii oculosvocant. Simulatque terram bipalio repastinaveris, radicem harundinis acutafalce praesectam inpendenti pluvia disponito.

The reed is best planted by means of what some call bulbs, others eyes. As soon as you have repastinated the soil with a two-spade, set out the reed-root, cut off with a sharp sickle, with rain impending.

[2] Sunt, qui harundines integras sternant, quoniam exomnibus nodis strata harundines emittat. Sed fere hoc genus evanidam exilemqueet humilem harundinem adfert. Melior itaque satio est ea, quam prius demonstravimus.

[2] There are those who strew whole reeds, since from all the nodes the laid reed emits shoots. But generally this method produces an evanescent, exiguous, and low reed. Better, therefore, is the planting which we have previously demonstrated.

Placet autem omnibus annis, simul harundinem cecideris, locum alte et aequaliterconfodere atque ita rigare.

It is approved, moreover, every year, that, as soon as you cut the reed, you dig the place deeply and evenly, and thus irrigate it.

XXX

DE VIOLA.

ON THE VIOLET.

[1] Violam, qui facturus est, terram stercoratam et repastinatamne minus alte pedem in pulvinos redigat. Atque ita plantas annotinas scrobiculispedalibus factis ante Kal. Martias dispositas habeat.

[1] Whoever is going to raise the violet, with the soil manured and repastinated, let him throw it into ridges not less than a foot high. And thus let him have the year-old plants set out, little pits a foot deep having been made, before the Kalends of March.

Semen autem violaesicut olerum in areis duobus temporibus seritur, vere vel autumno. Coliturautem modo eo, quo et cetera olera, ut runcetur, ut sarriatur, ut interdumetiam rigetur.

The seed of the violet, just as that of the vegetables, is sown on plots at two seasons, in spring or in autumn. It is cultivated in the same way as the other vegetables (oleraceous herbs): that it be weeded, that it be hoed, and that it be sometimes watered as well.

DE ROSA.

ON THE ROSE.

[2] Rosam fructibus ac surculis disponi per sulcos pedalesconvenit per idem tempus quo et viola. Sed omnibus annis fodiri ante Kal. Martias et interputari oportet.

[2] It is fitting that the rose be disposed with fruits and shoots along foot-wide furrows, at the same time as the violet. But every year it ought to be dug before the Kalends of March and to be pruned.

Hoc modo culta multis annis perennat.

In this way, when cultivated, it perennates for many years.